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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.